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  1. Thanks for posting the material on the 2700. My unit is s/n 87229.
    Still using it, despite it being a beast and lacking modern features- does just fine on packet, and the VFO makes for a handy signal source at low power. Some rigs are just too useful to retire, like some people.
    73s
    WB6LQP

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  3. I have the FDK Multi 2700, it came from Germany. Only transmit from 144-146mhz, would like to get it to transmit from 144-149mhz, any help would be a great help…

    73’s

  4. Given a FDK-2700 today as a restoration project which if I can get it back in working order will probably be offered to my local radio club. Rob H G0HRT

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  6. Owned one new back in day, about 5 years ago found one at reasonable price. Clean box but needs TLC. Always thought it was the coolest box around for the time. Almost as funky as the Brimstone all mode of the era. Thanks for the service manual I needed it badly!!!
    73
    NS5F
    McKinney Texas USA

  7. I have one. Inside it says “Passed Inspection 1976.” Sn 92171. Just had the OX-117 board go out. Anyone got a spare so I can get this great radio back up?

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  9. I am also the owner of a GOOD old multi-2700 but not from KLM but from FDK and I use this old one regularly together with a lineair 200 P.E.P. and I am still satisfied about the performance.
    73’s

    Mike Koopsen
    PC1MK
    Northsee Island Borkum
    JO33JN

  10. As I have said I have a FDR Receiver
    I notice that one of the caps on the rear of the unit is missing
    It is a 10 pin cap
    I think this may be the reson the radio is not working
    Would any one know where I might obtain one of these caps
    Any help would be appreciated

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  12. I have just got hold of one of these old classics, the origional FDK badged one, looking forward to restoring it and putting it back into regular service. I have tried to download the service manual but the link now seems to be broken :(, any one out there have it and a schematic. Karl. M0KRL. South Yorkshire.

    • Some ‘we sell any manual’ type site was linking to the free FDK Manuals on this site and charging people for it so I tightened the security to break their link. I’ve since relaxed it so it should be working again – if not drop me a note through the comments section. I’m sure they’ll be back at it just as quick tho…

  13. I have just been given FDK Multimode-2700,, minus the mic, and the four pin power lead that may be a squire four pin Jones plug ,,can any one help me that knows were I can get one of these power lead plugs ,,Thank you for your time
    Colin GW0IRP

    • What did you do for a microphone? I also bought one without a mix and am having a hard time finding on that will work. Ideas or leads to find one?

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  15. β€œwww.concept9.co.ukFDK Multi 2700 Multimode VHF transceiver with Oscar | www.
    concept9.co.uk” genuinely causes myself think a small amount more.
    I actually appreciated every particular portion of this blog post.
    Thanks for your time -Barb

  16. Ran across your site – just what I needed in the way of manuals; many thanks. I have owned one of these rigs since 1987 and it is QC labeled Mar 29, 1977 on the PA shield. No serial number that I can find, however.

    Having two problems with the rig – perhaps someone can help or wants it for a parts/restoration project:

    1) PA breaks into oscillation when its trimmers are aligned per the service manual and this has been confirmed on a spectrum analyzer. It’s especially noticeable when transmitting SSB and the oscillation is very near 145MHz.

    2) The -600KHz offset crystal (16.300MHz) appears to be bad. No output. The socket/trimmer circuit checks out.

  17. I truly enjoyed reading your biography thanks for your link on Shaun Richards’s blog… Really appreciate to meet people with independent thinking and thirst for freedom and liberty but above all for individual who try to make destinity their own.
    Kindest Regards,
    Philippe Herzet (Just a thought)

  18. That was me and Stuart up on Mill Hill that lovely warm day. It was one of those unplanned outings that turns out to be a brilliant day that you’ll never forget. You’re absolutely right – a great way to wind down after a stressful week! Thanks for coming to say hello! Ashley.

  19. Daniel: to transmit outside the 144-146 area, look in the schematic all the way to the right, the K4-2 relay controls current from either the S4-5 (Synth 1 MHz knob) or S7-9 (VFO MHz knob), what pins on the knobs are connected determines where it can transmit. In the schematic the positions for 144 and 145 are connected, enabling transmit on those bands.

    The VFO knob is easy to get to, for the Synth I soldered a wire jumper across the input and output since I could get to it without disassembling the whole front panel.

  20. I own KLM Multi-2700 serial number 11475 so it must be a real late model. This the second one I’ve owned. Bought the first brand new in 1977 or so and sold it a few years later. The current one was purchased off eBay in 2005 for $100 complete with factory microphone. Still an impressive performer and sounds great on all modes.

  21. Serial number 14380, QC stamp from late 1978 inside.

    I modified mine to work 25/12.5 kHz channels, and put a small opamp on the FM discriminator output to bring the FM volume up afterwards. I also had problems with the output drive losing power, turned out to be a bad solder joint somewhere in the output booster, probably one of the ground plane links.

    I’m also looking into upgrading the LO to use a TCXO since it drifts a fair bit with the seasons (I keep it near a window).

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  25. WOW…What a super source of information.
    Have only quickly browsed the contents but have put it on a memory stick to read on my commute to work each day…Our Appreciation to Frank K0IYE for his excellent contribution to the Amateur Radio Hobby.
    Have been licensed since 1960 and Frank has touched on many areas that I was involved.

    73 de Norm VE3CZI
    “It is not the class of license that the Amateur holds but the class of the Amateur that holds the license”

  26. Hello,
    Just for your info, the penthouse for a K9 does not actually go on the roof, but fits on the left handside of the vehicle. If you at the pic of the vehicle you have posted there is an apron(canvass) that runs along the length of the body.

    I’ve just sold my K9 but have a penthouse in perfect condition if you know of anyone that wants one.
    cheers
    Paul

  27. IΒ΄m owner of a multi 2700 too. ItΒ΄s a very good transceiver. My father bought it, I think, 1977 or 1978. He was a radio amateur, too. The Serial-Number of mine is 11418.

    Best regards, Jutta (DO4PY)

  28. That is amazingly complete! I arrived at my first Royal Signals posting at the same time as the D11/R230 in 1964 – one of the only two technicians trained on it. It was quite advanced for its day, with double, single and independent side-band working as well as CW for Morse and FSK for teleprinter links. It even looked space-age: where earlier equipment was dull green or grey with black knobs, this was finished in shiny hammer-finish green with black, red and yellow knobs according to function.

    The R230 receiver (later R234) is on the left and the D11 transmitter on the right. The big box in between is the PSU; above that is the aerial tuning unit, and above that the aerial coupling with an SWR meter on the front. I don’t recall the box at top left, but I think it may have been a separate ATU for the receiver.

    The Siemens T100 teleprinter on the right came with paper tape reader and punch, and was a godsend after the incredibly noisy Creed 7B. The operator’s desk and console are on the left – note the folding operator’s chair inside the door. The box strapped down on the desk is, indeed, a field telephone. The Morse key, operator’s headset and handset will have been stored in the drawers under the desk along with message pads, pencils and the like, spare rolls and paper tape for the teleprinter and such essentials as tea and coffee.

    At night the roof lights would be off and the blackout shutters up, with the dim light on the wall above the console the only illumination. There was room on the floor in front of the equipment for one person – usually the crew chief! – to lay out a bedroll and enjoy a warm, dry night’s sleep. The rest of us slept outside, under the stars or in two-man bivvies.

    As Paul has pointed out, the penthouse, stored in the coffin, would be erected against the left-hand side of the vehicle but we rarely bothered with it. Dismantling and stowing it in a hurry, especially in the wet and the dark, was a rectal discomfort.

    The right-hand cable drum carried the power cable, which would be pulled out to connect the vehicle to one of the generators. The left-hand drum was for D10 telephone cable (tough stuff) which would be laid to a field telephone in a command post or comcen. Our end would connect to the telephone on the operator’s table. There was also a screw terminal for connecting the chassis to a big, steel earth pin, driven into the ground with a sledge hammer.

    I don’t recognise the generators in the trailer. Ours were much taller – twin 3.5KVA 240V single phase AC generators with big radiators. I remember the radiators particularly because we used to stand a jerry can of water in front of the radiator over night so that we had warm water for a wash and shave in the morning.

    Aerial cable and the erector gear, collars, halyards and ground anchors for the aerial masts were all stored in the coffin with the penthouse, and like the penthouse we did our best to avoid using them. With a sensitive receiver and a 300W transmitter we didn’t really need to, and the most common arrangement was a single whip aerial or a twin-vee mounted directly on the roof. We were frequently told that it was tactically desirable use a more directional aerial and radiate less power, and I’m sure it was, but it was also tactically necessary to be able to move at the drop of a hat, and that wasn’t going happen if we had to take down 40-ft masts section by section, coil the halyards, dig out the ground anchors and stow it all away. Especially in the dark.

    The receiver was a great toy. When not on net we sometimes amused ourselves by getting soviet propaganda from TASS on the teleprinter or, even better, the Albanian equivalent which alternated between the wonderful doings of Comrade Hoxha and invective hurled, in more or less equal measure, at Capitalist Running Dogs (us) and Soviet Revisionists (the Russians).

    Another pastime was working out the characters needed to punch a paper tape so that, held up to the light, it would read β€œI LOVE YOU”, or something more basic. There was also an underground market in tapes that would print typed pictures of naked ladies to go on the wall.

    Happy days…

  29. I have a Bigear Type-1 which I believe is related to the Multi-2700. It looks like the Multi-3000 but does not have the 2 switches below the VXO.
    Does anyone have manuals for this radio?
    Thanks, dennis in Missouri
    dennis4040@yahoo.com

  30. Just to add to Paul’s comments, the ladder at the rear is to gain access to rooftop duckboards which allowed you to get at the ‘coffin’ storage on the front of the body and the roof aerial mounts.

    The ladder on the spare wheel rack is just a ramp to get the spare wheel down; it’d be very difficult to access the coffin from it as you’d be partly underneath the coffin.

    The box on the side under the body is a battery box. Some K9s had a generator mounted on the chassis and driven by V belts from the transfer box.

    The trailer is a Brockhouse or similar one ton trailer probably with two Onan 240V generators in, and is probably not original to the vehicle.

    The green box on the desk I think is a telephone handset. It’s rare to see one of these with the equipment in; they were normally stripped out before sale. The closest I’ve ever got was one with desks, racks and bits and pieces such as the handset, but no radio equipment

  31. What a fantastic vehicle with all the kit in. when we were backloading them from 22 sigs in 1972 we had to make up the full CES first so the vehicle went back for sale/disposal with every item intact. what a bind trying to find the pins which were used to mount the penthouse and as for padlocks i think it had about 20 in total. I wrote my K9 off a few weeks before I left the army. brakes failed and ran it into the back of a new 3 tonner with 1 ton mounted radio box on back. hey ho. happy days.

  32. Just got a 2700 on Ebay, real cheap. And it has a problem. A real screwy problem. I am shelving it for now for another day, too many things I should be doing instead… And thanks for posting the manuals. I made those images into a pdf. Anybody wants a copy I’ll put it on the web site.

    Maybe someone has run into this. VCO instability. Not mechanical. Transmit FM, you hear noise in the background. On SSB it seems like phase noise and I found one spot on x-3 to bypass and it improved that a whole lot. But most noticeable in SSB, when modulating the VCO frequency “wiggles” in response to modulation. So…added bypassing at the VCO, PLL, loop filter, etc. Did an alignment on the X5 and X6, where I did find an issue. BTW, I know it is the VCO since it is the only thing at 127 mhz coming from the radio, and listening to its hetrodyne on the IFR. All other xtal osc are rock stable, so to speak.

    Now in the X5 and 6 alignment, at one point it says to ground test point 1 (11 mhz *2 buffer) which removes a mix component and should unlock the loop and cause the VCO to wander to some place where it feels comfortable. This is where I start seeing something very odd. The frequency stays around where it was and it shifts very fast up and down about 10 khz. But not the 137 mhz the manual hints at. Not even close. It says to “adjust” the VCO coil to make this happen, but moving a turn on the coil did absolutely nothing. Turn radio off then back on with clip lead still in place, VCO doesn’t start at all. Looked on a spectrum analyzer, it ain’t there. Unclip the short and after power off/on it comes back. Tried shorting the loop voltage which also stopped the osc, off/on to restart.

    I have to get some shut eye and stare at the schematic again to see what this all means. Oh yeah, the procedure to monitor test point 2 and adjust T2-T5 for max, looking for 1.5 volts…well, got 0.1 volt there.

    So I put it back together. Maybe part it out??

    I have 4 other 2 meter SSB rigs already. I didn’t really need this but the price was good. Technically I consider myself pretty good. This one is a head scratcher, but most of the problem is back and forth top to bottom and no easy way to work on the VCO modules in circuit…

    GeorgeC
    W2DB
    Allstarlink node 2360

    • Hi George,
      Sounds likes you’ve got your hands full with this little problem. You sound like a man that’ll get it solved with your greatest asset – persistence πŸ™‚

      The only thing I might offer is to seperate out the VCO from the rest of the circuit and see if the fault remains within that unit or if it works correctly on its own. I’ve had oscilators that fail to operate when long unexpected leads are attached so I am not entirely surprised yours is doing this under similar conditions.

      A can of freezer spray may help to blanked locate the area that’s causing trouble – its probably the usual leaky cap or duff solder joint that’s causing the issue. It sounds like its worth investigating Test Point 2 up-stream from here as your voltage is well down at .1 volt. But you know that already πŸ™‚ Try to seperate out your input and output from each stage if you have to and give them a dummy load to work into, then assess if the stage is doing what you’d expect it to. The stage ahead can’t work correctly if the output of the previous stage is out of whack. That locates your problem into a stage, then its a case of looking into that stage more closely.

      Good luck and keep persistence on your side πŸ™‚

      Alex

  33. Hi, I would just like to add a comment which may be of help. I have been having doubts about my old in series heater plugs for my series 3 diesel. I decided to install the parallel plug option and would mention that the dashboard lamp is in parallel to the ballast resistor so doesn’t form part of the heating circuit. In my case the bulb was not lighting up however I was still getting 9.9 volts at the ballast resistor feeding the plugs when the ignition switch was in the heater position. The conclusion is that there must be an open circuit to the bulb which has checked out to be in working order. I shall be rewiring the bulb circuit.

  34. I use yousendit.com to send the large KLM files I have to others. Maybe I sent them to one of the “You pay for it” sites but hope not. My intent was to keep it free for all. Good to see you keeping up the work Alex. BTW… Just got my KLM 2700 working again I think? Had to get a friend to help this time! Now to see if I can remember how to wire a mic for it from the bizarre schematic! Hi …. Rick

  35. Hi please add me to the multi-2700 owners list i have one and i absolutley love it it’s all i have for vhf would not be with out mine needs an alignment as power is only 3 watts and i have to shout to get that on ssb πŸ™ but atleast it still works :p
    cheers paul “2e0pbp”

  36. I am trying to find a copy of an article in the Electronics Illustrated magazine back in abt 1969-1973. He said it was how to build an electromagnet that picks up non-ferrous metals. Please help me to find this. Thanks so very much in advance, Patti.

  37. Hi there could you add me to the owners list for the following radio:-
    FDK MULTI 3000
    ———————————————-
    A good radio and similar to the FDK 2700 MULTI

  38. Hello,
    I am considering of buying a junk-rigged Venturer. I’m not new to junk rig, but Venturer is a stranger to me and there are none of them close by.

    What would you say about the performance of a bilge-keeled Venturer – and especially the seaworthiness in rough weather?

    What are the most important things to check before buying?

    Thanks i andvance!

    • Hi Jami,
      Thanks for dropping by to my site.

      In answer to your questions :

      Firstly I have to admit that I’ve never, since buying this Junk rigged Newbridge Venturer ever actually sailed her. The rig was in dubious condition when purchased and someone had stolen the topping lift making raising the sail impossible until the mast has come down and a new halyard run in. Life over took sailing this boat although I still own her. Thats now 10 years !

      But – we did purchase a bermudan version while we had the junk and we sailed the bermudan rigged vessel. Two separate boats, same hulls, different rigs.

      Before commenting on the sailing, I was told, probably by Sunbird [?] Marine, if I got the name right, that the Junk Newbridge is one of the better junk rigged boats. It was to do with the underwater profile of the Navigator boats.
      When this boat was launched and towed to her home port the tapering mast whipped back and forth as we motored over the chop in the English Channel. This alarmed me until I realised the boat was already over 20 years old, this would have happened again and again in all her years sailing, and still the mast was there standing upright unsupported. Thus it was nothing to worry about and I quieted my mind over this concern.

      The boats themselves aren’t thoroughbred race winners and will never be. They are comfortable arm chair sailors with ‘seriously’ human comfortable usable interior space for their size.

      I suspect Blondie Hassler had some input into the interior, not just the sailing rig, as a professionally fitted out boat as this one was, has a surprising array of cleverly thought out details that I think would have been absent had someone like Hassler with his extensive small boat sailing experience not been consulted.

      Except the Junks have the mast keel stepped which occupies the space between the two bow berths. I’ve wrapped a neoprene yoga mat around the mast here that saves the cold mast finding parts of your body in the night.

      Sailing the Bermudan I’ve found the boat quick to get up to what ever speed she can attain in the given wind, where 5.5knots is probably all your likely to get.

      The Engine compartment in the stern quater locker starves the engine of air so the lid needs to be raised when motoring. It might be Ok for a 4 horse engine to breath in here which would be light and underpowered for the boat, but an 8 we had was suffocating under lack of air and/ or exhaust gases being trapped. Opening the lid solved all this but now it was noisy. The hull when clean is very easily driven.

      In rougher weather, meaning a 3 or 4 foot chop the apparently high coamings of the cockpit can seem alarmingly close to the water when down in the dips between waves. This has caused me concern for the outboard engine being lower down in the hull where passing waves invade the engine space from below past the engine leg gaiter. This really had me thinking it would soon drown. Except it never did. It never even gave up, even for a while. The enclosure of the engine top kept out the water and any that found its way in if it did, I am sure it would have,left the way it got in through small holes in the engine casing on the underside. Eventually I learned to trust the set up and it was actually Ok. We had a Mariner 8.8 long shaft.

      An 8 horse is a big engine while the engine locker will take a 10 horse outboard, they are beasts of a weight to haul in and out with any frequency. Remote Controls just add to the complexity. Just look for a man in the bar with no skin on his knuckles and he probably does this. The downside of the bigger engine is this lack of motivation to take it out, but to leave it permanently in position where sadly with neglected maintenance it will soon succumb to corrosion, non existent anodes and probably mud and crap jammed in behind the propeller.

      With the engine offset from the centre line maneuvering can be a total joke especially when going astern. But for the smallest outboard in the well, there simply isnt the space to rotate the engine head in the direction you’d like to go. So its all down to the rudder and the rudder has minimal flow over it.

      An inboard Diesel Engine on the Centre Line solves all these problems and would be a definite plus to sellers proposition.

      Of the two Newbridge Venturers I had they both had differing keel attachments to the hull. I can’t tell you which was later, only that the Junk had a molded profile in the hull for the keel attachments that was absent on the Bermudan rigged boat.
      Inside the keel bolts may or may not be visible depending on their being glassed in during the production while getting access with a spanner to get them out may involve some surgery to the inner lining making up the furniture.

      Also the Bermudan rigged boat was clearly a home finished effort where any cut that needed to be straight was done with a Jigsaw, presumably because the builder had no idea what a Circular Saw was for, other than perhaps cutting round holes in wood. Hence its name.
      The fit out was a disaster and caused a good deal of reflection to the quality of fit out to this Junk version and the belief it had been factory fitted. Everything fit together properly and all the little details were there where they needed to be.

      The headlinings are a major issue as the foam backing becomes brittle and gives way allowing the lining to sag.
      This becomes a game of Whack a Mole, as you attend to one area, another area will soon let go. For me I’ve ripped it all out, lining the interior with Celotex half inch foam insulation finished in Aluminum making the accommodation usable during the winter with minimal heating. The finish over this, another project waiting to be given the breath of life, is to refinish it in Birch Plywood with Mahogany trimmings. I’ve even bought most of the wood, but time and life continue to get in the way with other pressing needs. Its not a trivial task this, taking me a month to do the Celotex alone, properly trimmed to shape. Other methods maybe to replace the existing vinyl with new stuff using the old as a template [I tried this myself and gave up simply because it will just repeat the same problems in time], or carpet the interior. It will still all cost you time and a surprising amount of money.

      The real plus for this size of boat, excepting I am sure there are others – don’t flame me readers, is they have a separate enclosed heads area. This is a real plus with the females you may sail with.

      All boats have their problems, lets be honest. Great sailors but crappy accommodation. Great accommodation, crappy sailors. We are talking about 22 foot and day sailing. Nothing is perfect. The Newbridge design was popular with many examples coming up for sale. In the hard core sailing community they are hardly ever considered. For the average man with a family, mortgage and job with little spare time they sold well. If getting to windward is a priority, I still hold to the belief that nothing goes to windward like a Boeing 747. Take their tip, bang the engine on and motor home when you need to.

      I think for what they are, the Newbridge Venturer are a great compromise. The motto I seem to live by is that I buy and hold, aiming to make right what I have and keep it. Everything is a compromise where chopping and changing your car, bike or boat simply begins the whole process of getting it right all over again now with something else and a new set of problems. It all costs time and money and eventually your spending more time chopping and changing than getting out in it.Wow! I can talk! Everything excels in certain different directions. No one size fits everything. No one boat will be everything to everyone.

      Kind regards

      Alex

  39. I was posted into 22 Sigs in 1973, and we still had the K9 vehicles, which were soon replaced with the Bedford RL larger box Dll/R234 installation.
    notice how narrow the tyres are on the K9, and as the vehicle was very heavy for its size it easily got bogged down.
    posted from 22 to 604 Signal troop in 1977, and we had the K9 box mounted on a RL vehicle, and the generators were vehicle mounted, as the role called for mobile D11 working, via a common antenna twin v from the transmitter pot. this meant we had to tow an empty trailer, so the twin vee could face backwards, and stop the following vehicle from running into the whip antenna.
    the empty trailer made a perfect sleeping place, everybody had an old mattress fitted, then your sleeping bag and pillow.
    it was a sad day when we were reequipped with Clansman, Landrover mounted, and we went back to the 2 man bivvie.
    loved compo, ! still remember menu E, my favourite, steak and kidney pud, garden peas, fruit salad, oatmeal blocks with a cup of tea, terrific grub !!

    • Hi Shreekant,
      No timer fitted. The plugs glow for as long as you hold the Ignition key in the Pre-heat position. Hope that helps πŸ™‚ Alex

  40. I guess you’d better put me on the list, as well. I have an FDK-branded one, ser. #93120, with the FDM-10 hand mic. It has issues, though, so thank you for the documentation, I can send along the schematic & manuals to have a technician troubleshoot it. To use it right now, I have to use the VOX switch to enable/disable transmit. I can get quite a distance on USB with 1W, so I think it’s performing well that way, at least.

  41. Served with 71 Signal Regt a Territorial Unit and we Had Bedford MK Box Body mounted D11 with 2 MK mounted Onan 3.5Kva Generators from 1978 to early 90s.
    Many a happy hour spent operating these sets, only worked well if we could set them up and remain static for several days.
    Used them as individual stations at Troop level with one troop acting as a rebroadcast Unit with a extra large box body with 2 complete sets in

  42. 71 sigs we had D11/R230/234 in the seventy’s K9 body mounted on Bedford MK 4×4 located to the rear of the truck bed with a pair of Onan generators mounted in front with 100 ltrs of fuel we left the penthouse in the garage a complete PITA used a 9×9 tent instead.
    We used dipole wire antenna suspended between the 50 ft masts that are stowed on the side of the truck body for TX RX was a sloping wire ours was a static role for FSK duplex
    and SSB voice we never did the mobile role.
    School of sigs classroom set was working CW to the yacht British steel in Sydney harbour during the round the world race can’t remember which year.
    Considering the set was designed for the shipboard use not being chucked around in the back of a truck it was a bloody good bit of kit.

  43. I just aquired a KLM Multi 2700. serial #11464 in beautiful cndx and working. I ordered the tone board mention above.

  44. Thanks for having the information on the Multi-2700. Trying to resurrect one. It seems fine and AM and FM, but seems to have some kind of a feedback issue in USB/LSB/CW in receive. If you have any thoughts….

  45. Hi Alex
    I now own Storrs since I purchased her in August 2019. I note you mention her at the beginning of your post. When did you own her and can you tell about any of her history. Her interior is a bit shabby but I intend returning her to her original fitting. Currently she has a DIY carpet finish on her deck heads and bulkheads. I have been researching old photos etc to get ideas when I came across your post and was surprised to see you mention Storrs. Thank you in advance
    Andrew